Boy’s Civil War Zouve Uniform
I started working at the Museum in 1998 as an intern and one of my first projects was to catalog a collection of military items. This uniform was the first item from the Museum’s collection that I touched. I was immediately fascinated and was desperate to learn more about the child who wore it. Unfortunately, the object record has little information - just “Boy’s Uniform - Civil War.” Since the project contained another 150 items, I never had the time to properly research this piece and, ten years later, I still have hopes for extra time one day to track down the provenance. Perhaps you have some information. If so, please let me know through this blog.

1750s Robe a la Francaise / 1910s Fancy Dress Costume
I received a call about a year ago from a woman who was trying to clean out her family’s estate and wanted to know if I would come to their home to review clothing items for possible donation to the Museum. The home is just a few blocks from the Museum so I walked over for an initial review.

I was shocked when I walked into a home, built in 1911, that was lived in by three generations of the same family. The five story town-house was completely furnished and each closet was stuffed with clothes from at least five different people. It was a dream come true. There was clothing dating back to the 1750s through to the 1960s and each piece was a work of art. The great-grandfather had invented the process of bottling soda water and his fortune was immense.

This gown is one of many items that are now in the Museum’s collection. It was originally made around the 1750s and is a style called a robe a la Francaise due to the open pleats falling from the shoulders. It is in mint condition with beautiful handmade flowers around the neck. The grandmother of the woman who called me purchased this gown in the 1910s to wear to an 18th-century fancy dress ball. The photo I am holding in the image shows her wearing the gown. The gown has yet to go through conservation so it is very wrinkled and certainly does not fit the mannequin well. I hope one day to use this gown in an exhibition and be able to show it properly. Keep your fingers crossed for me!

Bicycling Ensemble, 1887
Made by Marshall Field & Co.
Whenever I read about the changes in women’s lives of the late-19th century, I am surprised at how seldom the bicycle is mentioned. Although patents for bicycles can be found as far back as the 18th century, it was not until the 1890s that the bicycle enjoyed wide-spread use. For many women, the bicycle was their first feeling of freedom in the chaperoned world of the 19th century. At that time, getting from A to B meant walking or using a horse or horse and buggy and for unmarried women, a chaperon was a must. It was considered unacceptable for an unmarried woman to be out in public alone. Many of those “rules” were broken once the bicycle was available. With access to a bicycle, one could simply jump on and control one’s own destiny. (At least for that day!)

And bicycling fashion was fabulous! Various trends came into fashion due to the bicycle, from bloomers to split skirts. Bicycling ensembles from the 1880s are extremely rare and CHM has one made by Marshall Field & Co. in mint condition. It includes a split skirt, bodice, boots, spats and a smart hat. This ensemble is the oldest bicycling ensemble I have ever seen in a museum collection. It makes me happy every time I see it. As with the robe a la Francaise, I hope one day I will be able to put it into an exhibition for everyone else to see.

Tags: bicycling, Civil War, Costume and Textile, fancy dress, French, Marshall Field, Timothy Long, uniform, women's history

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